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Longing for Discomfort
Senegal seems so far away now. That's probably because
it is. I'm now a little less than 4500 miles from Dakar, the capital of
Senegal; just a little farther than I can walk. Yet I realized I never
quite described the country of Senegal to you. I described life in the
village, the once-in-a-lifetime experience that I couldn't fully appreciate
until it was over. I described missing To get into the mindset, I must make myself uncomfortable.
In preparation, I haven't showered in three days and I have turned up
the heat in the apartment to an unbearable 105 degrees. I have turned
the radio to a foreign language station that is spouting incomprehensible
gibberish. I have an unbelievable amount of hair on my face and the top
of my head and I have eaten some food washed with questionable water,
so that my stomach is now making sounds of a percolating coffee maker.
Ahhhh, it is all coming back to me now. Ronit was a fabulous guide throughout the country.
After spending three years in Senegal and then being away for three years,
her Pular (one of the local languages) was impressive, to say the least.
She speaks beautifully, with the sing-songy quality of the locals. She
even mastered the back-of-the-throat clicking sound, which translates
to "OK." Without her language skills, we would have been truly
lost. I wouldn't have lasted a day by myself. French being the colonial
language, English speakers are few and far between, and when you find
one, he or she is inevitably trying to sell you something. I don't think
I would have been able to get a meal if Ronit wasn't with me. And yet,
with her there speaking a local language, we were invited to many delicious
meals. The Senegalese were always shocked and impressed to One thing I noticed about Senegal, unfortunately,
is the pollution. Senegal is a dirty country, plain and simple. Some of
the waste management solutions implemented in Senegal revolve around throwing
garbage in the street and having cars run over the plastic bags to help
them biodegrade. There are piles of trash in the cities, which grow larger
every day, until the piles are burned, sending toxic smoke into the air.
On windy days, the dust kicks up, and the sky has a brown haze that would
keep the children of Los Angeles from doing outdoor physical education.
The cars all spew out thick, black clouds from their exhaust pipes. In
all of the local languages, there is no word for "emissions control"
or "low-emission vehicle." I looked in every dictionary I could
find. I also could find no word for snow. Yet there are seven different words for hot. Ronit often recalls her pamphlet from Peace Corps, which described her region as "one of the hottest inhabited places on Earth." Temperatures often soar into the triple digits, prompting locals to say, with incontrovertible logic, "The sun is hot." Yes, that is very true. The sun is hot.
So now, as I sit in Chicago, I have a strange longing
for the colorful discomfort, the dangerous transportation, the filthy
pollution and the strange languages of Senegal. I do miss the tasty spices
of the local cuisine and the feeling of euphoria stemming from listening
to West African music. And while I am loving the convenience of walking
into an air-conditioned grocery store to buy ANYTHING I want, there is
always a certain magic in exploring new territory that comes while being
abroad. Though Senegal is a difficult place to travel, it was the experience
of traveling that I really enjoyed more than anything else. I also loved
meeting Ronit's Senegalese family and all of her friends. Living in her
Peace Corps world was an amazingly rewarding experience that few people
ever get the chance to witness; I was overjoyed at the chance to be a
part of that world. But since I'm back, I may as well open a window and
take a shower. |
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